June 15, 2011 - 6:41pm

Teotihuacan is pretty convenient to Mexico City. A short bus-ride from the Bus terminal Norte, for 36 Pesos, and the ticket seller gave me my first lesson in caveat emptor: "The bus leaves in three minutes," he informed us, "Do you have 8 pesos?" I had given him a 200-peso note, and fished out the requisite change. He gave us our three tickets and we hurried away.... You guessed it. He did not readily proffer our 100-peso-note change. The bus was pulling out of its parking space by the time we did the arithmetic, and realized we had been allowed to overpay.

June 15, 2011 - 5:52pm

Dazzling churches! Frida & Diego! Great cuisine! Pyramids! Sublime sculpture! Hieroglyphs! Mysteries! Howler Monkeys! Dawn chorus of a million birds! Dark, vaulted chambers, stone walls sweating, ceilings hung with bats! Leafcutter ants! Army ants! Biting ants! Stinging ants! Malarial mosquitoes! Montezuma’s Revenge! Corrupt cops! I love this place!

June 1, 2011 - 9:21am

1 June 2011

Tomorrow I set off with two friends for Mexico City. For twelve days, we journey slowly across southern Mexico, eastward, toward what the Aztecs called "The Land of the Red and the Black"... For the Aztecs, these colors usually refer to the rising Sun and the watery Underworld**, but they have a double meaning: Red and black are the colors of ink. The Maya were the learned ones, their home the land of innumerable books.
My kind of people!

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